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Czechoslovakia's "Velvet Revolution" in November 1989 was probably the most unequivocably positive of eastern Europe's anti-Communist upheavals, as the Czechs and Slovaks shrugged off 41 years of Communist rule without a shot being fired. But the euphoria and unity of those first few months evaporated more quickly than anyone could have imagined. Just three years on, the country split into two separate states: the Czech Republic and Slovakia. The Czechs - always the most urbane, agnostic and liberal of the Slav nations - have fared well, although they are now having to contend with growing unemployment and an increasing cost of living.
Almost untouched by the wars of the twentieth century, the capital, Prague , is justifiably one of the most popular destinations in Europe. An incredibly beautiful city with a wealth of architecture, from Gothic cathedrals and Baroque palaces to Art Nouveau cafés and Cubist villas, it's also a lively meeting place for young people from all over Europe. The rolling countryside of Bohemia is swathed in forests and studded with well-preserved medieval towns and castles, especially in the south around Ceské Budejovice . In the west, you'll find the old watering-holes of the European aristocracy, the spa towns of Karlovy Vary and Mariánské Lázne . The country's eastern province, Moravia , is every bit as beautiful, only less touristed. Olomouc is the most attractive town here, but Brno , the regional capital, has its own peculiar pleasures.
The most pleasant way of travelling around the Czech Republic is by train - it's scenic, safe and inexpensive, although fares are gradually creeping up. If you're in a hurry, however, buses are nearly always quicker and more frequent.
The Czech Republic has one of the most comprehensive rail networks in Europe. Czech Railways (Ceské dráhy or CD), run two main types of trains : rychlík trains are faster, stopping only at major towns, while osobní trains stop at just about every station and stagger along as slowly as 30kph. In addition, there are InterCity (IC), and EuroCity (EC) expresses, for which you must pay a supplement. Tickets ( jízdenky ) for domestic journeys can be bought at the station ( nádrazí ) before or on the day of departure. Fares are still cheap - a second-class single from Prague to Brno costs around Ł9/$13 - but they're rising. CD runs reasonably priced sleepers to and from a number of cities in neighbouring countries. You must, however, book as far in advance as possible and in any case no later than six hours before departure. InterRail passes are valid; Eurail passes are not.
Regional buses ( autobus ) - mostly run by the state bus company, Ceská státní automobilová doprava (CSAD) - travel to most destinations, with private companies like CEBUS providing an alternative on most inter-city routes. Bus stations are usually next to the train station, and if there's no separate terminal you'll have to buy your ticket from the driver. It's essential to book your ticket at least day in advance if you're travelling at the weekend, on a public holiday or early in the morning on one of the main routes. A useful Web site for times and information is www.vlak-bus.cz .
Travelling by car is not the most relaxing way to tour the country; increased vehicle ownership in the Republic has made major roads fast and busy, plus signposting is poor and potholes ubiquitous. Speed limits are 130kph on motorways, 90kph on other roads, and 50kph in all cities, towns and villages. Seat belts are compulsory at all times, and you are not allowed to drink any alcohol if you're driving. If you want to travel on any motorway within the Czech Republic, you'll need a motorway tax sticker ( dálnicní známka ). This currently costs 800kc a year for a car (buses, caravans and lorries are much more expensive) and is available from all border crossings, post offices and petrol stations. Fuel is fairly cheap by European standards; natural is the word used for lead-free petrol. If you break down, dial 154. The major car rental firms currently charge around Ł250/$400 per week for a small car with unlimited mileage, though local firms offer much more reasonable rates.
The local climate is temperate with warm summers and cold, cloudy, humid winters, typified by a mixture of maritime and continental influences.
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