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Stockholm , the capital, is the country's supreme attraction, a bundle of islands housing monumental architecture, fine museums and the country's most active culture and nightlife.

STOCKHOLM comes lauded as Sweden's most beautiful city, and apart from some sad central squares of concrete developments and a tangled road junction or two, it lives up to it - it's delightful, not least as a contrast to the apparently endless lakes and forests of the rest of the country. It's also a remarkably disparate capital, one whose tracts of water and range of monumental buildings give it an ageing, lived-in feel and an atmosphere quite at odds with its status as Sweden's most contemporary, forward-looking city.

Built on fourteen small islands, Stockholm was a natural site for the fortifications, erected by one Birger Jarl in 1255, that grew into the current city. In the sixteenth century, the city fell to King Gustav Vasa, a century later becoming the centre of the Swedish trading empire that covered present-day Scandinavia. Following the waning of Swedish power it entered something of a quiet period, only rising to prominence again in the nineteenth century when industrialization sowed the seeds of the Swedish economic miracle

The Stadshuset , Hantverkargatan 1 (guided tours: mid-May to Sept daily 10am, noon & 2pm; rest of year 10am & noon; 50kr; T-Centralen), at the water's edge near Central Station, and in particular its gently-tapering 106-metre high red-brick tower (May-Sept daily 10am-4.30pm; 15kr), has the best fix on the city's layout. The building itself, a flagship of the National Romantic movement in the 1910s and 1920s, draws heavily on Swedish materials and themes, exemplified in the cavernous Blue Room, where the Nobel prize-givings are held, and the Golden Room, where a précis of Swedish history covers the walls in a gilt mosaic.

By train , you arrive at Central Station , a cavernous structure on Vasagatan in Norrmalm. All branches of the Tunnelbana, Stockholm's underground system, meet at T-Centralen, the station directly below Central Station. Cityterminalen , adjacent, handles all the bus services, both domestic and international, including the airport bus. Viking Line ferries arrive at Tegelvikshamnen in Södermalm, in the south of the city, a thirty-minute walk from the modern centre, or connected by bus to Slussen and then by Tunnelbana to T-Centralen. Birka Cruises services dock in Södermalm, too, just up the quayside at Stadsgården. The Silja Line terminal is in the northeastern reaches of the city, a short walk from Gärdet or Ropsten, from where you can take the Tunnelbana. Arlanda airport is 45km north of Stockholm; buses run every ten minutes to Cityterminalen (6.40am-11pm; journey time 40min), and high speed trains leave every fifteen minutes from Arlanda Express Station beneath the airport for the city's Central Station (5am-midnight; journey time 20min; 140kr).

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