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The Scottish capital, Edinburgh , is a handsome and ancient city, famous for its magnificent castle and Palace of Holyroodhouse as well as for a world-acclaimed international arts festival and some excellent museums - not least the outstanding National Museum of Scotland . A short journey west is Glasgow , a sprawling industrial metropolis that has done much to improve its image in recent years and can now boast a range of fine museums and galleries to complement the impressive architectural legacy of its eighteenth- and nineteenth-century heyday.

Southern Scotland , often underrated, features some gorgeous scenery, but nothing quite to compare to the shadowy glens and well-walked hills of the Trossachs , or to the Highlands , whose multitude of mountains, seacliffs, glens and lochs cover the northern two-thirds of the country. Inverness is an obvious base, although Fort William , at the opposite end of the Great Glen near Ben Nevis , Britain's highest mountain, is an alternative.

Some of Britain's most thrilling wilderness experiences are to be had on the Scottish islands, the most accessible of which extend in a long rocky chain off the Atlantic coast, from Arran through Skye (the most visited of the Hebrides) to the Western Isles , where the remarkably hostile terrain harbours some of the last bastions of the Gaelic language. At Britain's northern extreme lie the sea- and wind-buffeted Orkney and Shetland islands, whose rich Norse heritage makes them distinct in dialect and culture from mainland Scotland, while their wild scenery offers some of Britain's finest birdwatching and some stunning archeological remains.

Scotland has four main international airports (Glasgow, Edinburgh, Prestwick and Aberdeen) that serve a wide variety of European and intercontinental routes with scheduled and chartered flights. Highland and Islands Airports operate 10 regional airports serving the more remote locations of Scotland.

There is no national airline, however various small airlines have their base in Scotland including Loganair (operates as a franchise of British Airways), Flyglobespan, Air Scotland and ScotAirways.

Scotland has a large and expanding rail network, which is now managed independently from the rest of the UK. The East Coast and West Coast Mainlines and the Cross Country Line connect the major cities and towns of Scotland with the English network. First ScotRail operate services within Scotland. The Scottish Executive has pursued a policy of building new railway lines, and reopening closed ones.

The Scottish motorways and major trunk roads are managed by the Scottish Executive. The rest of the road network is managed by the Scottish local authorities in each of their areas. The country's busiest motorway is the M8 which runs from the outskirts of Edinburgh to central Glasgow, and on to Renfrewshire.

Ferry services operate between the mainland and the Scottish island communities. The Superfast Ferries service from Rosyth is the only scheduled ferry service connecting Scotland to mainland Europe.

There are over 400 golf courses in Scotland , where the game is less elitist, cheaper and more accessible than anywhere else in the world. The game as it's known today took shape in the sixteenth century on the dunes of Scotland's east coast, and today you'll find some of the oldest courses in the world on these early coastal sites, known as "links". If you want a round of golf, it's often possible just to turn up and play, though it's sensible to phone ahead and book, and essential for the championship courses. It's worth asking at the tourist office for the Golf Pass Scotland which will give you a discount on courses for either three or five days. Prices vary according to area.

Public courses are owned by the local council, while private courses belong to a club. You can play on both - occasionally the private courses require that you be a member of another club, and the odd one asks for introductions from a member, but these rules are often waived for overseas visitors and all you need to do is pay a one-off fee. The cost of one round will set you back between around £10 for small, nine-hole courses, up to more than £40 for eighteen holes. Simply pay as you enter and play. In remote areas the courses are sometimes unmanned - just put the admission fee into the honour box. Most courses have resident professionals who give lessons, and some rent equipment at reasonable rates. Renting a caddy car will add an extra few pounds depending on the swankiness of the course you are playing.

Scotland's championship courses , which often host the British Open tournament, are renowned for their immaculately kept greens and challenging holes, and though they're favoured by serious players, anybody with a valid handicap certificate can enjoy them. St Andrews (tel 01334/466666, ) is the top destination for golfers: it's the home of the Royal and Ancient Golf Club, the international controlling body that regulates the rules of the game. Of its six courses, the best known is the Old Course, a particularly intriguing ground with eleven enormous greens and the world-famous "Road Hole". If you want to play, there's no introduction needed, but you'll need to book months in advance and for the Old and the New Courses have a handicap certificate - handicap limits are 24 for men and 36 for women. You could also enter your name for the daily lottery - call before 2pm on the day you'd like to play. One of the easier championship courses to get into is Carnoustie , in Angus (tel 01241/853249), though you should still try and book as far ahead as possible; a handicap certificate is required - 28 for men and 36 for women. Other championship courses include Gleneagles in Perthshire (tel 01764/662231), Royal Dornoch in Sutherland (tel 01862/810219) and Turnberry in Ayrshire (tel 01655/331000). Near Edinburgh, Muirfield (tel 01620/842123 Tues & Thurs only), considered by professional players to be one of the most testing grounds in the world, is also one of the most reactionary - women can play only if accompanied by a man, and they aren't allowed into the clubhouse.